Crochet Skirt and Crop Top

 

Megara Skirt and Top

Hello everyone! My name is Sam, the designer behind Casale Crafts and I am a self-taught crochet fashion designer based in Santa Monica, CA  I was so excited when Furls reached out to me about a collaboration because I had been dying to try out their hooks for quite some time now.

For me, working with cotton yarn often means working with a smaller hook which as we all know typically means more hand and wrist pain. Luckily, Furls Hooks are all about ergonomics and treating your hands kindly (your hands are your most important tool after all, other than your brain I suppose). Needless to say, as someone who loves working with cotton, I was so ready to get my hands on a Furls Hook and honestly other than the facts that they are absolutely gorgeous, they really did make a difference for my hands!

 

Now, I am by no means a tall person (don't worry, this is about to come full circle in just a second haha) so in my mind, although I loved Maxi Skirts and Dresses on other people, I didn't think it could ever be a style for me because I was just too short. That is until one day I decided to say screw it and try one on just for fun, and not only did it fit, it looked great AND made me look taller! Ever since then, I have fallen in love with them and it brought a whole new light to Summer Fashion for me.

With that being said, I simply couldn't help myself and I just had to make a Maxi Skirt design for this collaboration. Therefore the Megara Maxi Skirt and Top Pattern was born! For anyone who may not know, I almost always have some kind of Disney influence behind my designs and as I was making this pattern, I was feeling some major Megara (from Hercules) vibes, hence the name.

 

So, as previously stated, this is a Free Pattern for both the Maxi Skirt and the Crop Top! Although the design may take a little bit of time to complete given the size of the skirt, it is actually very simple to make, you only need to know like 3 or 4 stitches, I promise. However, should you ever have any questions, comments, or concerns while following the pattern please feel free to reach out and share your thoughts! I will be available to assist on the Furls Facebook CAL group, Fun with Furls. I am always happy to help so don't be scared to ask any questions! So, let's dive in shall we??

SUPPLIES NEEDED

I am a huge fan of Gazzal Cotton, it is so soft and an amazing quality, not to mention pretty dang affordable for a high-quality cotton. I have a whole review of it on my site, here. If you are thinking of giving it a try. I have only really ever been able to find it for sale online on Amazon, which you can find the link to it below. You can also buy it in 5 packs, which will save you a bit of money!

It's a Sport Weight Yarn made of cotton, with 150 yards per ball.

I made this design in the color "Plum", but obviously you can use any color you'd like, additionally if you would like to use a different brand of cotton, just make sure that it is a Sport/Baby Weight and test it's gauge as it may not be equal to the gauge provided. Also keep in mind that these are an approximate amount of balls that are needed and the lengths of the skirt and the top of the individuals, so it is always safe to get a little more yarn than you think you may need.

Supplies

• Approximately 8 (10/12/14/16/18) balls of Gazzal Baby Cotton 
• G/4.00 mm Furls Crochet Hook - We recommend Streamline Metal 
• A measuring tape to get body measurements
• 4 Charms to add to the end of your Ties (Optional)

GETTING STARTED

MEASUREMENTS

I just want to share a few notes about the sizing for this project. Although I have provided the approximate measurements of standard sizes, keep in mind that these may not match your actual measurements. Because this is a more form-fitting design, I recommend taking your personal measurements and working with those but using the standard sizes as a guideline. For example, if you are usually a small, but your hips are not 36", use the gauge to aid you in deciding how many stitches to add or subtract from your foundation in order to make the skirt fit you properly.

In addition, keep in mind that the skirt is worked as one big rectangle, so there is no shaping to it (you won't be increasing or decreasing your stitches in any of the rows). This is why the waist and hip measurements are the same in the table above. As the hips will likely be the widest part of your lower body, it is most important to make sure that the skirt can fit around your hips, and there is a drawstring at the waist for you to take in any extra room that there may be around the waist. So just keep in mind that having an accurate measurement of your hips is the most important part of making a skirt that will fit you.

The crop top is also going to a be a big rectangle that is based on the measurement of your bust.

There is also no set measurement of length for the top or the skirt as that is entirely based on personal preference for the individual making the design.

 

GAUGE

Single Crochet - 4 Stitches Across X 4 Rows = 1" x 1"
Griddle Stitch - 5 Stitches Across X 5 Rows = 1" x 1"
Double Crochet - 4 Stitches Across X 2 Rows = 1" x 1"
Mesh - 2, 3 chain Spaces across X 3 Rows = 1" X 1”

 

ABBREVIATIONS

CH - Chain, SC - Single Crochet, DC - Double Crochet, GS - Griddle Stitch, SS - Slip Stitch, FPDC - Front Post Double Crochet

 

CONTACTS

Casale Crafts Website 
Instagram 
Email: casalecrafts@gmail.com

 

PART ONE

We will be starting with the Maxi Skirt which will generally be worked from the top of the skirt, to the bottom of the skirt, with the exception that once you reach the bottom of the skirt you will be working back at the top to add the waistband that you will be stringing your drawstring through. If that sounds confusing now it will make sense later, I promise. Also keep in mind that the number of rows that are worked for each section will be a little bit vague as it will depend on the preference of the individual making the piece.

KEEP NOTES OF HOW MANY ROWS YOU ARE WORKING BECAUSE YOU WILL NEED TO DO A ROW OF SC ALONG THE SIDES OF THE SKIRT WHEN YOU ARE FINISHED AND KNOWING HOW MANY ROWS YOU HAVE DONE WILL HELP YOU KNOW HOW MANY SC STITCHES TO WORK ALONG THE SIDES

For this first section on the skirt, it is important to note that this is the part of the skirt that would be covering from the waist to a little past the butt, aka the part that you don't want to be see-through. Therefore, I highly suggest working with your personal measurements here to make sure that you get the proper coverage that you need for that area of the body.

This diagram shows what this section of the skirt will look like, as you can see there is a section in the middle that will measure a fixed 2". Take the measurement of your waist to the bottom of the butt, subtract two inches, and then divide that number by two. The number you are left with should be the approximate number of inches that each section of the griddle stitch should be. You can use the gauge to figure out how many rows you will need to work up that many inches.

Foundation

Chain 126 (138,150,162,174,186) stitches + 1, the plus one counts as your turning chain (double check that it fits around your hips before you commit to a size) if you do choose to adjust your foundation chain just make sure that it is a multiple of 6 (+1).

Row 1:

1. Work 1 row of SC across the entire foundation chain, so you should have 126 (138,150,162,174,186) SC stitches.
2. Chain 3 and turn (Counts as 1st DC)

 

First Griddle Stitch Section

1. Work 1 SC into the second stitch  (since your chain 3 counts as your first DC)
2. Work 1 DC into the next stitch
3. Work 1 SC into the next stitch
4. Repeat steps 2-3 until you reach the end of the row ( your last stitch should be a SC)
5. Chain 3 and turn (Counts as 1st DC)

Repeat steps 1-5 until your 1st Griddle Stitch section is the amount of inches that you figured out earlier to reach the desired length. (You don't need to chain 3 at the end of the last row, but finish by chaining 1)

Repeat steps 1-5 until your 1st Griddle Stitch section is the amount of inches that you figured out earlier. (You don't need to chain 3 at the end of the last row, but finish by chaining 1)

Middle Transition (Fixed 2" Section)

1. Work 3 rows of SC
2. Chain 3 and turn (Counts as 1st DC)
3. Work 1 row of DC
4. Chain 1 and turn
5. Work 2 rows of SC
6. Chain 3 and turn (Counts as 1st DC)
7. Work 1 row of DC
8. Chain 1 and turn
9. Work 3 rows of SC

Second Griddle Stitch Section

1. Work 1 SC into the first stitch
2. Work 1 DC into the next stitch
3. Repeat steps 1-3 until you reach the end of the row
4. Your last stitch should be a SC
5. Chain 3 and turn (Counts as 1st DC)

Repeat steps 1-5 until your 2nd Griddle Stitch section is the amount of inches that you figured out earlier. (You don't need to chain 3 at the end of the last row, but finish by chaining 1)

Once you have finished all of these steps, you will be working on another fixed transition section before you start working on the mesh portion.

Transition (Fixed 3 ” Section)

1. Work 3 rows of SC
2. Chain 3 and turn (Counts as 1st DC)
3. Work 1 row of DC
4. Chain 1 and turn
5. Work 2 rows of SC
6. Chain 3 and turn (Counts as 1st DC)
7. Work 1 row of DC
8. Chain 1 and turn
9. Work 2 rows of SC
10. Chain 3 and turn (Counts as 1st DC)
11. Work 1 row of DC
12. Chain 1 and turn
13. Work 3 rows of SC
    
    

 

This is what it should start to look like once you are done with this half of the Skirt. New week we will be working on the second half with the mesh, the drawstring waistband, and the slit that will be attached the halves for it to finally come together as a whole skirt!

PART TWO

Second Half of the Maxi Skirt and Finishing Touches

Now we are ready to start the second half of the skirt and finish it up in this part of the CAL.

First Mesh Section (Fixed 3" Section)

You will now start working on the first mesh section of the skirt, which will also be a fixed section (the length of second mesh section of the skirt will be customizable based on how long you'd like your skirt to be).

Row 1:

1. Chain 3 (counts as the "first stitch"
2. Skip the second stitch and SS into the third stitch.
3. Chain 3
4. Skip the next stitch
5. SS into the next stitch
6. Repeat steps 3-5 all the way to the end of the row.
7. Chain 3 and turn

Row 2-9

1. SS into the first Chain 3 space
2. Chain 3
3. SS into the next Chain 3 space
4. Repeat steps 2-3 till the end of the row
5. Chain 3 and turn 

Repeat steps 1-5 of Row 2, for 8 rows, so you will end with a total of 10 rows of mesh. (You don't have to end with a chain 3 on the last row, but you can finish with a chain 1)

Transition (Fixed 4" Section)

1. Work 2 SC stitches into each chain 3 space below
2. Chain 1 and turn
3. Work 2 rows of SC
4. Chain 3 and turn (Counts as 1st DC)
5. Work 2 rows of DC
6. Chain 4 and turn (Counts as 1st DC)
7. Skip the first stitch
8. DC into the next stitch
9. Chain 1
10. Skip the next stitch
11. Repeat steps 8-10 until the end of the row (end on 1 DC)
12. Chain 3 and turn
13. DC across the row (1 into each DC stitch and 1 into each chain 1 space) or (2 DC into each chain 1 space)
14. Chain 3 and turn
15. Work 1 row of DC
16. Chain 1
17. Work 2 rows of SC

 

Second Mesh Section 

You will now start working on the second mesh section of the skirt, which will be customizable based on how long you'd like your skirt to be. At this point you will measure from what you have finished so far to the desired length. There will also be one more fixed section which will be 6", so take that measurement and subtract the 6", whatever you have left over if how many inches of mesh you will need for this second section.\in order for the skirt to be the desired length.

Row 1:

1. Skip the first stitch and SS into the second stitch.
2. Chain 3
3. Skip the next stitch
4. SS into the next stitch
5. Repeat steps 2-4 all the way to the end of the row.
6. Chain 3 and turn

Row 2:

1. SS into the first Chain 3 space
2. Chain 3
3. Skip next Chain 3 space
4. SS into the next Chain 3 space
5. Repeat steps 8-10 till the end of the row
6. Chain 3 and turn

 

Repeat steps 1-6 of Row 2, for as many rows necessary as you figured out earlier (You don't have to end with a chain 3 on the last row, but you can finish with a chain 1)

Bottom Section (Fixed 6" Section)

1. Work 2 SC stitches into each chain 3 space below
2. Chain 1 and turn
3. Work 3 rows of SC
4. Chain 3 and turn (Counts as 1st DC)
5. Work 1 row of DC
6. Chain 4 and turn (Counts as 1st DC)
7. Skip the first stitch
8. DC into the next stitch
9. Chain 1
10. Skip the next stitch
11. Repeat steps 8-10 until the end of the row (end on 1 DC)
12. Chain 3 and turn
13. DC across the row (1 into each DC stitch and 1 into each chain 1 space) or (2 DC into each chain 1 space)
14. Chain 1 and turn
15. Work 4 rows of SC
16. Chain 3 and turn (Counts as 1st DC)
17. Work 1 row of DC
18. Chain 4 and turn (Counts as 1st DC)
19. Skip the first stitch
20. DC into the next stitch
21. Chain 1
22. Skip the next stitch
23. Repeat steps 8-10 until the end of the row (end on 1 DC)
24. Chain 3 and turn (Counts as 1st DC)
25. DC across the row (1 into each DC stitch and 1 into each chain 1 space) or (2 DC into each chain 1 space)
26. Chain 1 and turn
27. Work 1 row of SC

You are almost done with the skirt portion and the top works up pretty fast! You just need to finish the Draw String Section and the Connecting Slit Section!

Connecting Slit Section

On each side of the skirt you're going to work 1 row of SC as evenly across as possible. As noted before, this part will be easy if you kept track of how many rows you worked (learn from my mistakes haha), also keep in mind that the edge of DC stitches gets 2 SC into it. Make sure that each side of the skirt has the same amount of SC stitches and that they are all placed in the stitches on each side, they will need to line up identically when you attach them.

Row 1:

1. Work that 1st row of SC stitches evenly across the side of the skirt
2. Chain 1 and turn

Row 2:

1. Work 1 more row of SC stitches all the way across the side of the skirt
2. Chain 4 and turn (counts as first DC)

Row 3:

1. Skip the first stitch
2. DC into the next stitch
3. Chain 1
4. Skip the next stitch
5. DC into the next stitch
6. Repeat steps 3-5, not until the end of the row, but until you read the coverage section that you first worked up. (You can see an example in the picture below)
7. Finish the rest of the row by working DC into the rest of the stitches (don't skip stitches anymore)
8. Chain 1 and turn

Row 4:

1. Work 1 row of SC along the top.
2. Tie off

Repeat rows 1-4 on the other side of the skirt, you don't need to attach them now, but you will after you finish the drawstring section.

Drawstring Section

Going back to the very top of the project you will start working the Drawstring Section.

1. Work 4 rows of SC along the top of the skirt
2. Chain 3 and turn (Counts as 1st DC)
3. Work 1 row of DC
4. Chain 3 and turn (Counts as 1st DC)
5. For this row of DC you are going to be adding the "loops" for your drawstring to go through, you are going to do this by working a few FPDC stitches along the row. You can add as many or as few FPDC stitches as you like, but try to space them as evenly as possible (I think for mine I worked one every 10 stitches) it is really up to personal preference.
6. Chain 1 and turn
7. Work 2 rows of SC along the top

As you should be ending on the edge of the skirt, you can now start attaching the sides to each other to complete the skirt. You can attach the sides however you like ie. sewing them together or working slip stitches, just make sure they line up evenly. In addition, no matter how you attach it, there will probably be a bit of a seam, to avoid having this seam on the outside make sure that the drawstring loops that you just created are on the "inside" when you are attaching your sides together, then when you turn it inside out after you are done attaching them, the seam will be on the inside and the drawstring loops will be on the outside.

The only thing left to do for the skirt is to fashion yourself a drawstring! I just made mine by making a really long foundation chain, but you can use a different material or whatever you'd like, just make sure it is long enough. I also bedazzled mine by adding little starfish charms on the ends of the tie because I thought it was cute and added some more character to the design.

You are now done with the skirt portion!! Yay! Now you just have to do the Crop Top, which will work up much faster than the skirt as it is like an eighth of the size.

 

PART THREE

Crop Top and Finishing Touches

Now that you are all done with the Skirt, all that is left is the Crop Top!

Crop Top

To start the top off you are going to need to do a couple of measurements. The top is worked from side to side and attached by a lace up section in the back, therefore the length of the foundation chain will be determined by how long you want the top to be. Measure from the top of the bust down to the length you wish the top to be (if you know you would usually be wearing a bra with the top, take the measurement with the bra on as it may add a little bit of length).

That length measurement that you get is what you will work the approximate length of the foundation chain to be as you did with the skirt, make sure that the amount of chains that you work is a multiple of 6 + 1. So chain a multiple of 6 + 1 that is as close as possible to the length measurement that you'd prefer.

I know that the measurement of the standard sizes for the top seem small, but that is because it is a few less inches than the standard size so that the tie-up lace has some room to create tension. However, still keep in mind that these are just standard sizes if you don't think a standard size will fit you, add as many rows to the large griddle stitch sections (evenly on each side) that you need to make it fit you.

X Small Top

Foundation

The foundation will be the multiple of 6+1 that is closest to the length that you wish your top to be

Row 1

1. Work 1 row of SC
2. Chain 1 and turn

 

Row 2

1. This is where you are creating the holes for you lace to be strung through. So you will be working a row of SC, but skip stitches as often as you'd like and chain 1 above each stitch that you skip in order to create the hole. The amount of lace holes that you wish to have is up to personal preference base done how you wish your lace to look, but just make sure that you separate them evenly across the row.
2. Chain 1 and turn

 

Rows 3-7

Work 5 more rows of SC (make sure to work SC stitches into the chain 1 spaces)

3. Chain 3 and turn (Counts as 1st DC)

 

Rows 8-60

This is where you will begin working the Griddle Stitch.

1. Work 1 SC into the first stitch
2. Work 1 DC into the next stitch
3. Repeat steps 1-3 until you reach the end of the row
4. Your last stitch should be a SC
5. Chain 3 and turn (Counts as 1st DC)
6. Repeat steps 1-5 for 52 rows
7. Once you have your 53 rows, Chain 1 and turn

 

Rows 61-64

1. Work 4 rows of SC
2. Chain 3 and turn (Counts as 1st DC)

 

Rows 65-69

You are working the griddle stitch again here

1. Work 1 SC into the first stitch
2. Work 1 DC into the next stitch
3. Repeat steps 1-3 until you reach the end of the row
4. Your last stitch should be a SC
5. Chain 3 and turn (Counts as 1st DC)
6. Repeat steps 1-5 for 4 rows
7. Once you have your 5 rows, Chain 1 and turn

 

Rows 70-73

1. Work 4 rows of SC
2. Chain 3 and turn (Counts as 1st DC)

 

Row 74

1. DC into each stitch of the row, except for the last 16 stitches
2. Chain 1 and skip a stitch
3. DC into the next stitch
4. Repeat steps 2-3 until you reach the end of the row
5. Chain 3 and turn (Counts as the 1st DC)

 

Row 75

1. Chain 1 and skip a stitch
2. DC into the top of the DC in the previous row
3. Repeat steps 1-2 for the next 14 stitches (until you reach where you started skipping every other stitch in the row below)
4. Once you reach that section, DC into each stitch for the rest of the row
5. Chain 1 and turn

 

Row 76-79

1. Work 4 rows of SC
2. Chain 3 and turn (Counts as 1st DC)

 

Rows 80-84

You are working the griddle stitch again here

1. Work 1 SC into the first stitch
2. Work 1 DC into the next stitch
3. Repeat steps 1-3 until you reach the end of the row
4. Your last stitch should be a SC
5. Chain 3 and turn (Counts as 1st DC)
6. Repeat steps 1-5 for 4 rows
7. Once you have your 5 rows, Chain 1 and turn

Rows 85-88

1. Work 4 rows of SC
2. Chain 3 and turn (Counts as 1st DC)

Rows 89-141

You are working the griddle stitch again here

1. Work 1 SC into the first stitch
2. Work 1 DC into the next stitch
3. Repeat steps 1-3 until you reach the end of the row
4. Your last stitch should be a SC
5. Chain 3 and turn (Counts as 1st DC)
6. Repeat steps 1-5 for 52 rows
7. Once you have your 53 rows, Chain 1 and turn

 

Rows 142-146

1. Work 5 rows of SC
2. Chain 1 and turn

Row 147

1. This is where you are creating the holes for you lace to be strung through. So you will be working a row of SC, but skip stitches as often as you'd like and chain 1 above each stitch that you skip in order to create the hole. Do the same amount of holes as you did on the other side of the top
2. Chain 1 and turn

Row 148

1. Work 1 row of SC
2. Tie off

 

This is what mine looked like before I added the straps and lace up tie

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Small Top

Foundation

The foundation will be the multiple of 6+1 that is closest to the length that you wish your top to be

Row 1

1. Work 1 row of SC
2. Chain 1 and turn

 

Row 2

1. This is where you are creating the holes for you lace to be strung through. So you will be working a row of SC, but skip stitches as often as you'd like and chain 1 above each stitch that you skip in order to create the hole. The amount of lace holes that you wish to have is up to personal preference base done how you wish your lace to look, but just make sure that you separate them evenly across the row.
2. Chain 1 and turn

Rows 3-7

1. Work 5 more rows of SC (make sure to work SC stitches into the chain 1 spaces)
2. Chain 3 and turn (Counts as 1st DC)

Rows 8-65

This is where you will begin working the Griddle Stitch.

1. Work 1 SC into the first stitch
2. Work 1 DC into the next stitch
3. Repeat steps 1-3 until you reach the end of the row
4. Your last stitch should be a SC
5. Chain 3 and turn (Counts as 1st DC)
6. Repeat steps 1-5 for 57 rows
7. Once you have your 58 rows, Chain 1 and turn

Rows 66-69

1. Work 4 rows of SC
2. Chain 3 and turn (Counts as 1st DC)

Rows 70-74

You are working the griddle stitch again here

1. Work 1 SC into the first stitch
2. Work 1 DC into the next stitch
3. Repeat steps 1-3 until you reach the end of the row
4. Your last stitch should be a SC
5. Chain 3 and turn (Counts as 1st DC)
6. Repeat steps 1-5 for 4 rows
7. Once you have your 5 rows, Chain 1 and turn

Rows 75-78

1. Work 4 rows of SC
2. Chain 3 and turn (Counts as 1st DC)

Row 79

1. DC into each stitch of the row, except for the last 16 stitches
2. Chain 1 and skip a stitch
3. DC into the next stitch
4. Repeat steps 2-3 until you reach the end of the row
5. Chain 3 and turn (Counts as the 1st DC)

Row 80

1. Chain 1 and skip a stitch
2. DC into the top of the DC in the previous row
3. Repeat steps 1-2 for the next 14 stitches (until you reach where you started skipping every other stitch in the row below)
4. Once you reach that section, DC into each stitch for the rest of the row
5. Chain 1 and turn

Row 81-84

1. Work 4 rows of SC
2. Chain 3 and turn (Counts as 1st DC)

Rows 85-89

You are working the griddle stitch again here

1. Work 1 SC into the first stitch
2. Work 1 DC into the next stitch
3. Repeat steps 1-3 until you reach the end of the row
4. Your last stitch should be a SC
5. Chain 3 and turn (Counts as 1st DC)
6. Repeat steps 1-5 for 4 rows
7. Once you have your 5 rows, Chain 1 and turn

Rows 90-93

1. Work 4 rows of SC
2. Chain 3 and turn (Counts as 1st DC)

Rows 94-151

You are working the griddle stitch again here

1. Work 1 SC into the first stitch
2. Work 1 DC into the next stitch
3. Repeat steps 1-3 until you reach the end of the row
4. Your last stitch should be a SC
5. Chain 3 and turn (Counts as 1st DC)
6. Repeat steps 1-5 for 57 rows
7. Once you have your 58 rows, Chain 1 and turn

Rows 152-156

1. Work 5 rows of SC
2. Chain 1 and turn

Row 157

1. This is where you are creating the holes for you lace to be strung through. So you will be working a row of SC, but skip stitches as often as you'd like and chain 1 above each stitch that you skip in order to create the hole. Do the same amount of holes as you did on the other side of the top
2. Chain 1 and turn

Row 158

1. Work 1 row of SC
2. Tie off

Medium Top

Foundation

The foundation will be the multiple of 6+1 that is closest to the length that you wish your top to be

Row 1

1. Work 1 row of SC
2. Chain 1 and turn

Row 2

1. This is where you are creating the holes for you lace to be strung through. So you will be working a row of SC, but skip stitches as often as you'd like and chain 1 above each stitch that you skip in order to create the hole. The amount of lace holes that you wish to have is up to personal preference base done how you wish your lace to look, but just make sure that you separate them evenly across the row.
2. Chain 1 and turn

Rows 3-7

1. Work 5 more rows of SC (make sure to work SC stitches into the chain 1 spaces)
2. Chain 3 and turn (Counts as 1st DC)

Rows 8-70

This is where you will begin working the Griddle Stitch.

1. Work 1 SC into the first stitch
2. Work 1 DC into the next stitch
3. Repeat steps 1-3 until you reach the end of the row
4. Your last stitch should be a SC
5. Chain 3 and turn (Counts as 1st DC)
6. Repeat steps 1-5 for 62 rows
7. Once you have your 63 rows, Chain 1 and turn

Rows 71-74

1. Work 4 rows of SC
2. Chain 3 and turn (Counts as 1st DC)

Rows 75-79

You are working the griddle stitch again here

1. Work 1 SC into the first stitch
2. Work 1 DC into the next stitch
3. Repeat steps 1-3 until you reach the end of the row
4. Your last stitch should be a SC
5. Chain 3 and turn (Counts as 1st DC)
6. Repeat steps 1-5 for 4 rows
7. Once you have your 5 rows, Chain 1 and turn

Rows 80-83

1. Work 4 rows of SC
2. Chain 3 and turn (Counts as 1st DC)

Row 84

1. DC into each stitch of the row, except for the last 16 stitches
2. Chain 1 and skip a stitch
3. DC into the next stitch
4. Repeat steps 2-3 until you reach the end of the row
5. Chain 3 and turn (Counts as the 1st DC)

Row 85

1. Chain 1 and skip a stitch
2. DC into the top of the DC in the previous row
3. Repeat steps 1-2 for the next 14 stitches (until you reach where you started skipping every other stitch in the row below)
4. Once you reach that section, DC into each stitch for the rest of the row
5. Chain 1 and turn

Row 86-89

1. Work 4 rows of SC
2. Chain 3 and turn (Counts as 1st DC)

Rows 90-94

You are working the griddle stitch again here

1. Work 1 SC into the first stitch
2. Work 1 DC into the next stitch
3. Repeat steps 1-3 until you reach the end of the row
4. Your last stitch should be a SC
5. Chain 3 and turn (Counts as 1st DC)
6. Repeat steps 1-5 for 4 rows
7. Once you have your 5 rows, Chain 1 and turn

Rows 95-98

1. Work 4 rows of SC
2. Chain 3 and turn (Counts as 1st DC)

Rows 99-161

You are working the griddle stitch again here

1. Work 1 SC into the first stitch
2. Work 1 DC into the next stitch
3. Repeat steps 1-3 until you reach the end of the row
4. Your last stitch should be a SC
5. Chain 3 and turn (Counts as 1st DC)
6. Repeat steps 1-5 for 62 rows
7. Once you have your 63 rows, Chain 1 and turn

 

Rows 162-166

1. Work 5 rows of SC
2. Chain 1 and turn

Row 167

1. This is where you are creating the holes for you lace to be strung through. So you will be working a row of SC, but skip stitches as often as you'd like and chain 1 above each stitch that you skip in order to create the hole. Do the same amount of holes as you did on the other side of the top
2. Chain 1 and turn

Row 168

1. Work 1 row of SC
2. Tie off

 

Large Top

Foundation

The foundation will be the multiple of 6+1 that is closest to the length that you wish your top to be

Row 1

1. Work 1 row of SC
2. Chain 1 and turn

Row 2

1. This is where you are creating the holes for you lace to be strung through. So you will be working a row of SC, but skip stitches as often as you'd like and chain 1 above each stitch that you skip in order to create the hole. The amount of lace holes that you wish to have is up to personal preference base done how you wish your lace to look, but just make sure that you separate them evenly across the row.
2. Chain 1 and turn

Rows 3-7

1. Work 5 more rows of SC (make sure to work SC stitches into the chain 1 spaces)
2. Chain 3 and turn (Counts as 1st DC)

Rows 8-75

This is where you will begin working the Griddle Stitch.

1. Work 1 SC into the first stitch
2. Work 1 DC into the next stitch
3. Repeat steps 1-3 until you reach the end of the row
4. Your last stitch should be a SC
5. Chain 3 and turn (Counts as 1st DC)
6. Repeat steps 1-5 for 67 rows
7. Once you have your 68 rows, Chain 1 and turn

Rows 76-79

1. Work 4 rows of SC
2. Chain 3 and turn (Counts as 1st DC)

Rows 80-84

You are working the griddle stitch again here

1. Work 1 SC into the first stitch
2. Work 1 DC into the next stitch
3. Repeat steps 1-3 until you reach the end of the row
4. Your last stitch should be a SC
5. Chain 3 and turn (Counts as 1st DC)
6. Repeat steps 1-5 for 4 rows
7. Once you have your 5 rows, Chain 1 and turn

Rows 85-88

1. Work 4 rows of SC
2. Chain 3 and turn (Counts as 1st DC)

Row 89

1. DC into each stitch of the row, except for the last 16 stitches
2. Chain 1 and skip a stitch
3. DC into the next stitch
4. Repeat steps 2-3 until you reach the end of the row
5. Chain 3 and turn (Counts as the 1st DC)

Row 90

1. Chain 1 and skip a stitch
2. DC into the top of the DC in the previous row
3. Repeat steps 1-2 for the next 14 stitches (until you reach where you started skipping every other stitch in the row below)
4. Once you reach that section, DC into each stitch for the rest of the row
5. Chain 1 and turn

Row 91-94

1. Work 4 rows of SC
2. Chain 3 and turn (Counts as 1st DC)

Rows 95-99

You are working the griddle stitch again here

1. Work 1 SC into the first stitch
2. Work 1 DC into the next stitch
3. Repeat steps 1-3 until you reach the end of the row
4. Your last stitch should be a SC
5. Chain 3 and turn (Counts as 1st DC)
6. Repeat steps 1-5 for 4 rows
7. Once you have your 5 rows, Chain 1 and turn

Rows 100-103

1. Work 4 rows of SC
2. Chain 3 and turn (Counts as 1st DC)

Rows 104-171

You are working the griddle stitch again here

1. Work 1 SC into the first stitch
2. Work 1 DC into the next stitch
3. Repeat steps 1-3 until you reach the end of the row
4. Your last stitch should be a SC
5. Chain 3 and turn (Counts as 1st DC)
6. Repeat steps 1-5 for 67 rows
7. Once you have your 68 rows, Chain 1 and turn

Rows 172-176

1. Work 5 rows of SC
2. Chain 1 and turn

Row 177

1. This is where you are creating the holes for you lace to be strung through. So you will be working a row of SC, but skip stitches as often as you'd like and chain 1 above each stitch that you skip in order to create the hole. Do the same amount of holes as you did on the other side of the top
2. Chain 1 and turn

Row 178

1. Work 1 row of SC
2. Tie off

 

1x Top

Foundation

The foundation will be the multiple of 6+1 that is closest to the length that you wish your top to be

Row 1

1. Work 1 row of SC
2. Chain 1 and turn

Row 2

1. This is where you are creating the holes for you lace to be strung through. So you will be working a row of SC, but skip stitches as often as you'd like and chain 1 above each stitch that you skip in order to create the hole. The amount of lace holes that you wish to have is up to personal preference base done how you wish your lace to look, but just make sure that you separate them evenly across the row.
2. Chain 1 and turn

Rows 3-7

1. Work 5 more rows of SC (make sure to work SC stitches into the chain 1 spaces)
2. Chain 3 and turn (Counts as 1st DC)

Rows 8-80

This is where you will begin working the Griddle Stitch.

1. Work 1 SC into the first stitch
2. Work 1 DC into the next stitch
3. Repeat steps 1-3 until you reach the end of the row
4. Your last stitch should be a SC
5. Chain 3 and turn (Counts as 1st DC)
6. Repeat steps 1-5 for 72 rows
7. Once you have your 73 rows, Chain 1 and turn

Rows 81-84

1. Work 4 rows of SC
2. Chain 3 and turn (Counts as 1st DC)

Rows 85-89

You are working the griddle stitch again here

1. Work 1 SC into the first stitch
2. Work 1 DC into the next stitch
3. Repeat steps 1-3 until you reach the end of the row
4. Your last stitch should be a SC
5. Chain 3 and turn (Counts as 1st DC)
6. Repeat steps 1-5 for 4 rows
7. Once you have your 5 rows, Chain 1 and turn

Rows 90-93

1. Work 4 rows of SC
2. Chain 3 and turn (Counts as 1st DC)

Row 94

1. DC into each stitch of the row, except for the last 16 stitches
2. Chain 1 and skip a stitch
3. DC into the next stitch
4. Repeat steps 2-3 until you reach the end of the row
5. Chain 3 and turn (Counts as the 1st DC)

Row 95

1. Chain 1 and skip a stitch
2. DC into the top of the DC in the previous row
3. Repeat steps  1-2 for the next 14 stitches (until you reach where you started skipping every other stitch in the row below)
4. Once you reach that section, DC into each stitch for the rest of the row
5. Chain 1 and turn

Row 96-99

1. Work 4 rows of SC
2. Chain 3 and turn (Counts as 1st DC)

Rows 100-104

You are working the griddle stitch again here

1. Work 1 SC into the first stitch
2. Work 1 DC into the next stitch
3. Repeat steps 1-3 until you reach the end of the row
4. Your last stitch should be a SC
5. Chain 3 and turn (Counts as 1st DC)
6. Repeat steps 1-5 for 4 rows
7. Once you have your 5 rows, Chain 1 and turn

Rows 105-108

1. Work 4 rows of SC
2. Chain 3 and turn (Counts as 1st DC)

Rows 109-181

You are working the griddle stitch again here

1. Work 1 SC into the first stitch
2. Work 1 DC into the next stitch
3. Repeat steps 1-3 until you reach the end of the row
4. Your last stitch should be a SC
5. Chain 3 and turn (Counts as 1st DC)
6. Repeat steps 1-5 for 72 rows
7. Once you have your 73 rows, Chain 1 and turn

Rows 182-186

1. Work 5 rows of SC
2. Chain 1 and turn

Row 187

1. This is where you are creating the holes for you lace to be strung through. So you will be working a row of SC, but skip stitches as often as you'd like and chain 1 above each stitch that you skip in order to create the hole. Do the same amount of holes as you did on the other side of the top
2. Chain 1 and turn

Row 188

1. Work 1 row of SC
2. Tie off

2X Top

Foundation

The foundation will be the multiple of 6+1 that is closest to the length that you wish your top to be

Row 1

1. Work 1 row of SC
2. Chain 1 and turn

Row 2

1. This is where you are creating the holes for you lace to be strung through. So you will be working a row of SC, but skip stitches as often as you'd like and chain 1 above each stitch that you skip in order to create the hole. The amount of lace holes that you wish to have is up to personal preference base done how you wish your lace to look, but just make sure that you separate them evenly across the row.
2. Chain 1 and turn

Rows 3-7

1. Work 5 more rows of SC (make sure to work SC stitches into the chain 1 spaces)
2. Chain 3 and turn (Counts as 1st DC)

Rows 8-85

This is where you will begin working the Griddle Stitch.

1. Work 1 SC into the first stitch
2. Work 1 DC into the next stitch
3. Repeat steps 1-3 until you reach the end of the row
4. Your last stitch should be a SC
5. Chain 3 and turn (Counts as 1st DC)
6. Repeat steps 1-5 for 77 rows
7. Once you have your 78 rows, Chain 1 and turn

Rows 86-89

1. Work 4 rows of SC
2. Chain 3 and turn (Counts as 1st DC)

Rows 90-94

You are working the griddle stitch again here

1. Work 1 SC into the first stitch
2. Work 1 DC into the next stitch
3. Repeat steps 1-3 until you reach the end of the row
4. Your last stitch should be a SC
5. Chain 3 and turn (Counts as 1st DC)
6. Repeat steps 1-5 for 4 rows
7. Once you have your 5 rows, Chain 1 and turn

Rows 95-98

1. Work 4 rows of SC
2. Chain 3 and turn (Counts as 1st DC)

Row 99

1. DC into each stitch of the row, except for the last 16 stitches
2. Chain 1 and skip a stitch
3. DC into the next stitch
4. Repeat steps 2-3 until you reach the end of the row
5. Chain 3 and turn (Counts as the 1st DC)

Row 100

1. Chain 1 and skip a stitch
2. DC into the top of the DC in the previous row
3. Repeat steps 1-2 for the next 14 stitches (until you reach where you started skipping every other stitch in the row below)
4. Once you reach that section, DC into each stitch for the rest of the row
5. Chain 1 and turn

Row 101-104

1. Work 4 rows of SC
2. Chain 3 and turn (Counts as 1st DC)

Rows 105-109

You are working the griddle stitch again here

1. Work 1 SC into the first stitch
2. Work 1 DC into the next stitch
3. Repeat steps 1-3 until you reach the end of the row
4. Your last stitch should be a SC
5. Chain 3 and turn (Counts as 1st DC)
6. Repeat steps 1-5 for 4 rows
7. Once you have your 5 rows, Chain 1 and turn

Rows 110-113

1. Work 4 rows of SC
2. Chain 3 and turn (Counts as 1st DC)

Rows 114-191

You are working the griddle stitch again here

1. Work 1 SC into the first stitch
2. Work 1 DC into the next stitch
3. Repeat steps 1-3 until you reach the end of the row
4. Your last stitch should be a SC
5. Chain 3 and turn (Counts as 1st DC)
6. Repeat steps 1-5 for 77 rows
7. Once you have your 78 rows, Chain 1 and turn

Rows 192-196

1. Work 5 rows of SC
2. Chain 1 and turn

Row 197

1. This is where you are creating the holes for you lace to be strung through. So you will be working a row of SC, but skip stitches as often as you'd like and chain 1 above each stitch that you skip in order to create the hole. Do the same amount of holes as you did on the other side of the top
2. Chain 1 and turn

 

Row 198

1. Work 1 row of SC
2. Tie off

 

Whatever size you made, now all you have to do is add the straps and create your string to lace through the lace up tie section and you will be done! You can attach your straps (or even do strapless) wherever is most comfortable for you. I placed mine at that 4 rows of SC in between the griddle stitch sections and made them 4 rows thick, but again you can fashion them however you like! Just make sure that they are spaced evenly.

As for the lace up section, I did the same thing as I did for the drawstring for the skirt where I made a long chain, laced it through and attached little charms to the end for style.

Well, that is the final step of the piece! You have finished this Crochet-Along!! Give yourself a big pat on your very stylish back!